Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Fin del Sendero

Fin del Sendero is the street I take to get to my home. And this post is the last of the trip.

If you want to see people making art and exploring limits go to crissalas.blogspot.com and http://www.vientrecompartido.blogspot.com/.

After all this time I was introduced finally to the epicenter of graffiti and street art in Quito.

























And this is just the tip.

Bye.

Location:Chambala

Monday, March 28, 2011

A bit more about the Amazon and Street Art

First an image from today. On a wall next to Poca del Lobo restaurant in La Zona. By Waa (or Wa?), from Peru.




The schools in the Oriente (Amazon) do not have a summer vacation. Rather they have two breaks of about six weeks each for family renewal.

Traveling through the swelter of the Amazon serves as a reminder why there are no great universities in tropical climates.

There is a fruit that only women eat and they often eat it when they are visiting with other women. Women make the Chicha (a fermented alcohol drink) by chewing a plant (e.g., yucca) and spitting into a common bowl. It is the saliva that causes the fermenting.

People in the Oriente do not have or use sugar or salt.

The old men are very respected.

Had a long, productive talk today with Sergio Silva, who's name on the street is S2. He paints with a collective called Fenomenos. Most of the images in the "Listen Up!" magazine I did was by artists from the collective. S2 did the piece on the cover of the magazine. Here is one by him I photographed last Thursday in Floresta.




The members of Fenomenos are between 25 and 28 and in addition to S2 are (in alpha order) Estone, Infame, Pin8, Ralex, Raro, Seis, Suerte and Vera. Everyone in the collective does a variety of things in addition to their street art: painting, photography, product design (e.g., backpacks, clothing), etc.

Some of S2's observations:
- He is 25 and began painting when he was 20, five years ago. At first it was outside the "system." His first effort was a stencil opposing the bullfight and the society that supported it. Then he did a big Bob Marley stencil all around town (none surviving now), then a number of small stencils.
- Three years ago street artists started to get walls and paint and have festivals sponsored by places. The institutionalization of the work worries him because it inhibits artists from growing in ways that matter most. Some artists are waiting for the next festival because they can save some of the paint from the festival and go out afterwards on their own.
- The wall and the mural on the wall is setting a limit on the attitude and imagination an artist can have. He is interested in other textures and mediums.
- The shift needs to be from making art on a wall to making art with the community. And to expand to different formats.
- He hasn't done a wall in five months as he is doing his graphic work (how he makes a living) and searching for how he will grow next.
- He sees his role as recycling urban space.
- He is interested in cultural projects, such as the magazine he is doing with his brother. It is the only one in Ecuador produced without including advertisements. Twenty-five artists from eight cities contributed to Issue 01 of "Interruptor" fanzine.
- Most of the activity of the art and what economy it generates is in the underground. In Ecuador there is not much of a consumer base for art of any kind.

Location:Tumbaco

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Amazon

I'm not young and I went east. To what the folks in Ecuador call the Oriente and the rest of us call the Amazon. My friend Rocio, where I am staying in Tumbaco, drove us. The place we stayed was about a five hour trip. The highest point - to get us over the Andes and into the Oriente - was 4,000 meters. The change in topography and vegetation was astounding.

On the way there I got to watch young boys playing marbles, an obvious benefit of not being seduced by the computer. After all, what few social skills I have with my same sex I learned on the playground around a marble ring.




Last night we stayed in the Jardin de Aleman (outside Mishahualli) and got to have breakfast with an assertive parrot.




Today went on a motorized canoe on the river. All rivers flow to the Amazon which is what defines the scope of Amazonia.




One feature of the trip was visiting a reserve that was caring for wild animals who's owners no longer wanted them or were at risk living in the wild.




All day was with the guidance and care of Bolivar (his sister is named Bolivia) who teaches at a nearby Colegio and has a Ph.D from a Bulgarian university. He was the only indigenous person (Quechua) in his international cohort, even though there were others from throughout central and south America.




The only way to get to La Casa del Suizo is by boat. A truly lovely escape in the middle of the jungle.




There are consequences to serving tourists like me. Because all (?) the boats on the river are serving tourists, very rarely are they available to meet the needs of locals.

Sunday evening and back in Tumbaco.

Location:La Casa del Suizo, Rio Napo, Amazon

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Street Art Redux

Great pictures today (sort of, will explain in a moment) but they will not come through in the small thumbnail reproduction allowed me.

I spent the day in two suburbs of Quito - Guapulo and Floresta. Went there by bus (.25 cents) in the rain. Went to see some street art that was prominent in the magazine I produced last year. Some of it (most!) has been brutalized. Those who know the publication might recall the two figures on the string telephone on the red fence. That has given way to construction and people flagrantly painting over stuff. The yellow Ronald McDonald - "We Love Meat" - has been replaced entirely. Only the "we" remains.




Stark reminder of the ephemeral nature of street art.

Then I walked on to a really nice experience in Floresta. I started taking pictures of a figure across the front of a small house. Some of the figure was broken up by open shutters, so I went to the door to ask a man if I could close them.




He came out and closed the shutters and the door because the figure covered the whole area.




He explained that he painted it. His name is Juan Llumiquinga, a prominent Ecuadoran artist.




We had a very nice visit and before I left the area he shared some info about himself and the museums that hold his paintings.

My next magazine on street art is likely to be an illustrated story of my discovery of the art, what I like and why, and what it seems to mean in our culture. I'm asking myself, "What if Miro was a street artist?"

I guess I couldn't go a whole blog without some pictures.

Location:Guapulo and Floresta

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Pelea de Gallos

Those who have been following this blog know that I went to a cockfight Saturday night. It was in Tumbaco. Yesterday (Tuesday) I returned to the arena in the south of Quito where I had been before a few times. It is located where the stables were at on my friend Rosa's family hacienda.

For those who do not know I am continuing a project capturing the people at the fights. A big crowd Tuesday at 3:30 or so.














Today I went by bus ($2 each way) to visit the market at Otavalo, considered one of the great indigenous markets in the world.

Location:South of Quito

Monday, March 21, 2011

Quito Again

I should say "Street Art" again. A few favorite images.
















You likely noticed that I tossed in a picture taken at a festival celebrating indigenous cultures in Ecuador.

12 de Octubre has on it's walls - where it goes through a short underpass - some of the most spectacular wall art I've ever seen.








It is hard to show in these very small images. They are wonderful and will be prominent in my next Magcloud magazine. They have been up since 1998 and no one local - who pass through there all the time - knew they were there.

Location:Quito

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Day Two

I did go out today. Twice, to the park and to the pelea de gallos.

This "pond" is a short walk from where I am staying. Until I develop the images (it was a very cloudy day) and can show them larger it will not reveal how dramatic the site is.







This arena is in Tumbaco. Saturday night.







Location:Quito